Film Rewind crank: this crank is used to rewind the film manually, this is also how you open the back panel to load and unload film. Light Meter Switch: you need a battery for this it is not necessary to take quality photos but helps with finding the right aperture and shutter speed settings great for beginners. Focusing Ring: This is used so that you can make the object that you are photographing clear. Aperture Ring: This is used to adjust the amount of light that exposes to the film, this is important to adjust according to your light environment.
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Check current prices at Amazon or eBay. The camera does also pop-up for sale from the big online camera retailers. They can be worth checking out as they should be able to reliably verify a camera is in working condition. Other than the meter, the camera is purely mechanical. You should expect a battery to last about a year. There is a battery check lever below the film rewind crank. In order for the check lever to work, the shutter speed needs to be set to X and ASA set to With a good battery, the exposure indicator will move above the circle.
If the indicator is below the circle, it is time for a replacement. I do not know if the X setting on the shutter speed dial needs to be set for the PC sync port to fire. The center of the shutter button is threaded for a remote release. The outside of the shutter button can be rotated to lock the shutter button. This was easier to use than external meters that would only give EV exposure value readings. The light meter is a circle and line design.
Metering is center-weighted. Looking through the viewfinder will show a slightly grayed rectangle. That rectangle shows what is being metered. Unless the lens is wide open, stopped down metering needs to be used. FL lenses can be set to manually stop-down when the aperture is changed.
The lever next to the QL can be pushed towards the lens mount. Doing that will stop the lens down and give correcting metering. It can also be locked in place by moving the smaller lever below it. Microprisms are used for focusing. I found it difficult to focus on subjects that were not completely covered by the microprism circle. I prefer split image focusing screens. With FD and FDn lenses, stop-down metering will have to be used.
Canon made a complete lineup of lenses for the mount. It is easy to get any focal length you could want, and they will be relatively inexpensive. Above the viewfinder is a cold shoe. On the lower right front of the camera, there is a PC sync port for a flash.
Also on the right of the camera is a mirror lockup switch. The film door lock to the back of the camera is located on the bottom of the camera. There is a self-timer. Setting the time is done by rotating the stop-down lever counterclockwise when looking at the front of the camera.
You can obtain bellows, extension tubes, right-angle viewfinder, copy stands, dioptric adjustment lenses, and more. There is a list on page 39 of the manual. At the time of release, the Speedlite model cost more than the camera. If you need a flash, any flash with a PC sync port will work. A modern flash with adjustable output and a flash light meter will give the best results.
Canon Booster The Canon Booster is an auxiliary meter for measuring exposure in low light conditions. It can be helpful if you are doing indoor or night photography. Missing Features There is no way to do multiple exposures. A disadvantage is that it is an electronically controlled camera.
It does not have a mirror lockup. I am also unsure if there are any differences with shutter speeds or metering. The most important feature is that other than the meter, the K is fully mechanical. I find it more fun to use than fully electronic cameras.
Lenses are also inexpensive and able to be found. The only thing I dislike is the microprism focusing screen. I find split prisms easier to focus with.
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